Best epoxy/adhesive for steel and aluminum

Discussion in 'General Fabrication' started by nwaPLASMA, Nov 4, 2016.

  1. nwaPLASMA

    nwaPLASMA Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have recommendations for a good adhesive for bonding steel to steel or aluminum to aluminum? I've been using Gorilla two part epoxy found at Lowes etc but I can knock it apart pretty easy on aluminum. Thxs
     
  2. bigjoe

    bigjoe Well-Known Member

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    Get a small tube of 3-M. Polyurethane marine sealant , couple of small dime size squeezed out Inbetween Will hold pretty much anything. They have a fast cure as well. 5200. Or 4200
     
  3. nwaPLASMA

    nwaPLASMA Well-Known Member

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    Thxs
     
  4. Harlan Cooper

    Harlan Cooper Member

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    Bondo works too in between the two pieces.
     
  5. OcalaWill

    OcalaWill Well-Known Member

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    What no JB Weld? I love that stuff. Not the 5 minute, but the regular kind. Make sure both pieces have a good mechanical surface to bond to. If you don't mind some flex between parts I concur with the urethane adhesive.
     
  6. andymo

    andymo Member

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    I have had good luck with JB Weld also. Just make sure that the surfaces are clean before using it.
     
  7. nwaPLASMA

    nwaPLASMA Well-Known Member

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    Finally found something that's works great on metal.

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Keith Thomas

    Keith Thomas Member

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    I recently seen HTS 2000 which is for aluminium to aluminium bonding and it looks really impressive.
     
  9. bigjoe

    bigjoe Well-Known Member

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    Will try it , the 5200. After opening will harden up in the tube in no time
     
  10. Scott Peth

    Scott Peth Member

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    If you know anyone in the bucket truck/digger derrick production industry... they use a pretty aggressive adhesive in the fiberglass/steel mating section. Not sure what it's called, but it will adhere to steel as long as the surface is clean. It's a two part glue/activator and it gets really hot once it's mixed, so depending on your application it may or may not work well.
     
  11. JoeRob

    JoeRob Active Member

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    Be very careful with the 3m 5200 if you go that route. This stuff is almost impossible to remove. Have you ever seen the aftermath of a storm on a body of water, where at the dock a boat is missing ? Where the lines are still attached to the dock on one end and the other end is still tied to a cleat that was ripped from the boat? Thats the 5200 doing its job. The hull of a boat will rip apart before the 5200 . The 4200 is less aggressive. All depends on what you need it to do......
     
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